Sweet Surrender

Today was a culture-soaked day, one of the richest I've ever had. I want to blog more about Philly when I get home, but for now, some high points from what has been billed as the Lifestyles of the Rich, Royal and Famous Philadelphia press tour for writers:

1. James A. Michener Art Museum, Doylestown, Bucks County. About 40 minutes from Philly by car, the museum is in the former Bucks County Jail, and is named for the author of Hawaii and other important books I haven't read but would like to. He lived in the area, as did Dorothy Parker and Oscar Hammerstein, which amazes me; I figured they were purely New Yorkers. The Icons of Costume: Hollywood's Golden Era exhibit featured teeny-tiny-waisted dresses worn by Ingrid Bergman, Joanne Woodward, Elizabeth Taylor, and Audrey Hepburn [in Sabrina, 1954]. A room showed Michener's desk as he would have worked at it, with manual typewriter, book outline and his Doylestown High School t-shirt draped over the back of the chair. Also learned while at the museum about some other Bucks County attractions, including New Hope for Halloween ["It's one of the most haunted towns in the nation," according to BC press rep Michelle Greco] and Pearl S. Buck's house. Costume exhibit running through September 5; MichenerArtMuseum.org.

2. Late Renoir exhibit, Philadelphia Museum of Art. Loved it. I've been to this museum a couple of times before, and am always struck by its beauty and elegance. It just feels regal. Now, all the Renoir art I've seen only on postcards--such as Young Girls at the Piano--was there in person. Lots of domestic scenes, such as girls or young women looking at an album, reading, playing the guitar, tatting, combing their hair. Beautiful nudes with soft faces. Lovely looks at Renoir's sons as children, and of the nanny holding a baby. His view of the nanny was so intimate [she's nude in some paintings], I now want to know if they were having an affair.June 17 through September 6, $24; philamuseum.org.

3. Drinks at Cleo's Portico, a "pop-up cafe" [meaning it's there to tie into an exhibit at the Franklin Institute, in this case, the Cleopatra show]. It was really fun. We sat high atop Philly and savored Cleo-themed sips and nibbles like the Ra [Cairo Sunrise] Cocktail, $9.75; the Nefertini, made with Absolut raspberry vodka, $12.50; smoky babaganoush, $7.50; and stuffed grape leaves, $7.50. We also loved the nonalcoholic Basil-Lime Spritzer, $3.50.

4.Cleopatra: The Search for the Last Queen of Egypt exhibit, the Franklin Institute. We saw it in the evening, and loved it. I now want to read more about Cleopatra and see the movie Elizabeth Taylor starred in, even though it's just a cinematic portrayal. This exhibit revolves around items unearthed that tell us more about this intelligent, passionate, exotic queen [and mother of four]. I also found it interesting that three women touring the exhibit were wearing stylish floor-length glamorous dark dresses and swinging evening purses over their wrists--a couple of them were with their dates. Also intriguing that the actress narrating the audio tour, in the voice of Cleopatra, said of the opulent banquets, "We served pastries that dripped with honey, figs, dates and berries." The price is $32 but costs less in the evening hours and on weekdays, and always includes audio tour, which we enjoyed [it's a handheld phone-like device, no earphones--easier to manage]. Through January 2, 2011; fi.edu.

5. Dinner at Meritage . In honor of the Cleo theme, they made us raspberry Viper Bite Martinis and Coconut Panna Cotta Pyramids with passion fruit puree. We also had Crispy Soft Shell Crabs, Wild Mushroom Risotto, and other treats. Eileen, the newspaper reporter to my right, got the pyramid for dessert and it arrived at the table, quivering and lovely. I had to get the Milk and Cookies, which included a 3-inch strawberry milkshake, melty chocolate truffles and other treats. But the pièce de résistance was what Erin, a reporter from Queens, had: the Chocolate Covered Peanut Butter Bombe, $9. She let me have a few spoonfuls. [Thank you, Erin--the Reese's Peanut Butter Cup has been my favorite candy since I was a girl. I used to dream about getting one as big as a round table.] It was definitely the star dessert, although Phyllis, from Connecticut, said the Chocolate Mint Pot de Crème with whipped cream, $8, was excellent, too. [It led to a passionate conversation about Girl Scout Thin Mint cookies.] I also loved the French press coffee and want to get a French press, which was a big star at the "Hot Housewares for the Holidays" show I attended in NYC on Thursday. All it takes to make good coffee with a French press is boiling water, coarsely ground coffee and the special pot. "We don't even have a coffee maker here," said our waitress. "We just have hot water and coffee."

Now I must get some rest. Which is why I made sure my cup of French press was decaf.